Sunday, December 3, 2017

In which things are much less rude at Holyrood

In reading my previous post, it occurs to me that I don't think I emphasized how very disappointed I was with our experience at Edinburgh Castle. I had been really looking forward to it, and it was just so painfully crowded it hindered my experience. That said, I'd like to go back again and give it another shot, because I feel like there were cool things there that I didn't really get to absorb. Oh well. 

When I left off we had exited the castle with the plan of walking to the other end of the Royal Mile to Holyrood House, the official Scottish residence of the ruling monarch.  It's a pleasant walk from one end of the Mile to the next, and it gave me some time in a less agitated state to appreciate some of  the city. 

                                                                                                                                                                                                                       

                                                     What's the matter? Never taken a shortcut before?                                                                                                                                                                                                            
                    

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We finally arrived at the palace, where as I'm sure it will surprise no one at all, you can not take pictures once inside. There are some truly lovely pictures to be had in the arrivals courtyard, though.

This is one of those "the picture doesn't really do it justice" things. This gate and archway was gorgeous.                                                     


I honestly think this picture is slightly crooked because of how much the wind was blowing my camera around.                           
                                                                                                                                                                                                        


One thing I must say I'm very disappointed in myself for, is not taking a picture of one of the guards inside the initial vestibule. I swear she was Merida from Brave. She had the gorgeous, unruly, blazing red hair and everything. You'll just have to use your imagination. 

The inside of the palace is both gorgeous and fascinating. While the areas used as the private quarters of the sitting royal family are off limits, you do get to explore the official rooms which are still used today - including the room where the Queen takes state visitors, and the hall where she presents various awards and, you know, knighthoods. Little things like that.  There are also the ancient parts of the palace, many of which feature in some of the more sordid episodes from the life of Mary Queen of Scots. You can stand on the spot where one of Mary's favorite advisers was brutally murdered on the orders of her jealous husband. If that's not your thing, you might enjoy how the guided tour did an excellent job explaining the way the visitor's path is laid out to increase intimidation as one would get closer to the room where you were to encounter the reigning monarch. 

After you are done with the interior, you exit into the ruins of Holywood Abbey. Dating back to the 12th century, but abandoned to ruins somewhere before the 1800s, this has to be one of my all-time favorite ruins.  There's something about the way the Abbey still has touches of splendor even in its ruined state, and its position directly in the literal shadow of the palace that give it the kind of romantic qualities that one usually expects to find in a gothic poem. And good news! You can take pictures here!


 






I particularly like this figure's carved thistle. 







Once done with the Abbey, you'll have the option to explore the gardens, which again are cultivated to the preferences of the Queen.  She uses these gardens during her visits in good weather to host garden parties and other official state gatherings. On the day we were there, it was extremely windy and a bit biting - not at all garden party weather - but we still decided to tour the grounds a little.


Exterior of Holywood Abbey as seen from the garden.






Coming around the far side of the gardens,  you will have an excellent view of Arthur's Seat. 


All told, we spent a little over three hours at Holyrood - and they were absolutely wonderful. This was by far one of my favorite stops on our trip. 

When we were done there, we waffled a bit about what we should do next. In our waffling wanderings, we came across the back end of the property at Holyrood and discovered this fun gem. 





 In the end, we decided that dinner and an early night back at the B&B were in order. We found an excellent gastropub, which had the misfortune of being visited by an extremely loud and obnoxious American at the same time we were there. (Yes, we are American. No, we are not extremely loud and obnoxious. And that makes all the difference.)  After dinner we went in search of Edinburgh's famous fried Mars bar - an actual deep fried candy bar. As it was Easter, the shop we found was also advertising the seasonal specialty of a deep fried Cadbury egg. I passed on both "treats". Of the fried Mars bar, Adam says that while not "amazing and transcendent" it was good, and he was glad he tried it. I'm still not sorry I didn't.

It was getting dark when we caught a cab back to the B&B, and on the way I happened to catch this picture of Edinburgh Castle as it looks from below. 



 It really is a beautiful building, and a beautiful city. In all honesty, my experience there was a let down for me, but my expectations were about sky-high. Looking back on it now, I'd like to give it another shot. Maybe on a cloudy day.

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