The best laid schemes o’ Mice an’ Men

In the morning we went down to our lovely full Scottish breakfast and mapped out our day. Of the whole trip I was most excited for this day. We were heading into the  highlands and planned on checking out Cairngorms National Park. The park is home to one of the last old-growth forests in Britain, as well as abundant and rare wild life. We also planned on taking the funicular to the top of one of the highest peaks in the park, which is also home to the Reindeer Center where they have, ya know, reindeer. The area in and around the Cairngorms is also littered with whisky distilleries, which seemed like a great way to plan to wind down the evening before heading a little farther north to Inverness, where we had booked a room for the night. 

All of this was so up my alley that I had really focused a lot of my attention and excitement on what we'd be doing that day. Expecting it to be a bit muddy as it was spring, I had even bought a great pair of hiking boots. Well, I'd need them. But not for mud. 

At the breakfast table Adam pulled up the funicular live feed and saw that the weather was not great. In fact, it was snowed in. Ok, I said, so maybe we won't do the funicular. But we could still do the rest of it... right?  At that moment, our host came over and Adam asked him his opinion - could we still see some of the rest of the park even if the peaks were snowed in?

He didn't recommend it. Apparently most of the area is a little peaky, and if it's snowing bad enough to shut down the funicular, the rest of the area won't be much more passable. 

Totally bummed I picked up the pieces of my heart and the two guide books I had and we started re-routing. From Edinburgh to Inverness there aren't really that many routes. One was already dismissed as it went straight through the Cairngorms, another was dismissed as it didn't have much interesting to see or do along the way. The final answer seemed to be a route that kind of skirted around the exterior part of the Cairngorms.  Our host informed us that there were a lot of famous and historical castles to see on that route, and that pretty much sealed the deal. 

Leaving Edinburgh, the weather was fine. Overcast, but not too cold, not too rainy (although I do remember we got a few drops on the car). And then, suddenly... 

You can kind of tell by the picture, too, that the wind was really blowing all of that snow around. It was cold. 

After a while we came to Braemar Castle. We parked and Adam got out to read a sign about the castle and area while I stayed in the car to change into warmer clothes. In just the few minutes it had taken me to put on a warmer sweater Adam was nearly frozen solid. He announced that the first thing he'd learned from the sign is that Braemar is one of Britain's coldest settlements. Good to know.

A second sign on the gateway to the castle grounds informed us of something else that would have been good to know: the castle was not open to the public that day. Okeedoke. Frankly we weren't even disappointed. We were too busy being cold. I snapped a pic from the gate and we raced back to the car, which was still warm. Or at least warmer than it had been outside.

We drove our way over increasingly treacherous roads towards Balmoral. If you don't know, Balmoral is the private residence of the Royal Family. This is not where they go for their state visits in Scotland (that's Holyrood, back in Edinburgh), but rather where they go for their private retreats and vacations.

 

The weather had let up a little bit as we approached the castle and grounds. Still, we realized pretty quickly that this would be a better visit in the summer or fall. Since the castle is private, the only room open to the public is the ballroom. The grounds are supposed to be lovely, but probably not in the middle of a spring snowstorm. We had planned to have lunch here, but even the cafe is beyond the gate and the tickets were fairly pricey. In the end, we decided to just poke around the public areas and move on. There were some very lovely pictures to be had anyway! 

We saw a sign pointing away from the main road down a smaller looking lane that declared this was the way to the Royal Lochnagar Distillery. Well, distilleries had been on the to-do list for the day, might as well check it out. The weather had turned fairly nasty again and we were just happy to get indoors. 

What an unexpected and fun time we had here! Since the weather was so bad and the road conditions were poor, we were the only people in the place. Well, us and some Italian tourists who quickly left once they realized the only tours were available in English. We got our very own private tour of the distillery from one of the guides, Gordon, who also happened to be a noted whisky connoisseur. Since it was just us, he was informal and funny.  We learned that formal distilleries were a relatively new concept in Scottish history - before the 19th century most highland whisky was bootleg. We also learned that Lochnagar earned it's "Royal" title through an act that can only be described as ballsy. The distillery's originator, upon hearing that Queen Victoria and Prince Albert had purchased Balmoral next door, sent them a note inviting them for a tour. To his astonishment, they showed up the next day. He gave them the tour as promised and allowed them to sample several of his products. Queen Victoria issued a Royal Warrant for him to create whiskys just for the Royal Family and there you have it. They still maintain their Warrant, and make some blends which are provided to the Queen and family annually. 

I'll be honest, I'm not a big whisky drinker. Our tour came with a sample of one of their best whiskys and even though I love the way whisky smells and I'm fascinated by its production, nope. I couldn't handle it and gave my dram to Adam who was all too happy to have it. 

By the time we left Lochnagar the roads were awful. We started to worry that we'd have to turn back and find an alternate route to Inverness when we were turned away from several roads. In one instance the road we were on went up a pretty steep incline, but was sheltered on either side by the mountain-like terrain. Until it wasn't. Up ahead we could see the road went into a pass that was wide open, but we never got that far. There was a car stopped ahead of us, and in front of him was a snow plow turned so that it blocked the road. The plow driver came down to where we were and said that while we could certainly try to get over the pass, he wouldn't recommend it. He stepped back, looked at our car and tires, came back and said "You'll never make it. The wind is just too strong!"

We found another road we thought might get us where we needed to go without going over any passes, but someone coming in the opposite direction flashed their lights at us, signaling to stop. We rolled down the window and he told us the road ahead was closed with snow. Crap. We stopped to warn the next car that was also trying to get up that road, but they chose not to believe us and kept going. Maybe they made it, who knows. I took a pretty picture of a bridge while we were talking to them. 

We drove around aimlessly trying to figure out what to do. An hour or so later things started to clear up again, and we made a break for it - at least the passes wouldn't be gusting as badly.

We did make it to the other side of the mountains and found that once in the Culloden area there was no snow at all! Highland weather is weird. I had hoped we'd make it to Cawdor Castle, but it was closed by the time we got there. Whomp whomp.  I managed to take a very vague picture of it through the trees.

There were lots of black sheep in the fields, though! I love black sheep. 

If you're a fan of Higlander I'm sure you're wondering if we stopped at Culloden Battlefield. We did, but there's not much to see, really. No pics, sorry.

We came through Inverness and found our lodgings for the night on the edge of town.  The day had perhaps not been what I was anticipating, but the weather couldn't take away the fact that I was finally - FINALLY - going to achieve a bucket list item: I was going to spend the night in a castle.

Ok, so Bunchrew House is more of a manor house than a castle, but STILL! The earliest parts of the house go back to the 14th century when there was a modest wooden house built here. As the house grew and expanded, the wooden walls of the main room of that house were incorporated into the new building, and are still within the stone walls of what is now the drawing room (most of which itself goes back to the 16th century). Here's a picture from the coat of arms over the fireplace - in the lower right hand corner is the date this was installed - 1621.

Is it haunted? Supposedly, yes. I'll say the only thing we experienced was when we stepped into the foyer and I saw this portrait I said "If this place is haunted it's probably by her." And the spotlight over the painting immediately went out. True story.

This guy, also in the foyer, was judging me.

"OMG could you be more basic?"

The grounds of Bunchrew House are on the edge of the River Ness, which, as you may have guessed, feeds into Loch Ness. It's really quite beautiful.

There is also a notable Cedar of Lebanon which was planted by the 5th Lord of Bunchrew in the 18th century.

Bunchrew House has a restaurant within it, but we decided to venture into the city of Inverness for dinner. We were hoping to try a good local pub, but all were full and we ended up at a very nice Italian eatery for the evening. Food was great and atmosphere was nice. It was cold out after, but we took a walk anyway. I don't have any pictures because it was quite dark, but Inverness was a really nice little city. I wouldn't mind getting the chance to go back and explore it more some day.

Back to Bunchrew where we ordered some ciders and settled in for a bit on the cozy sofas in the drawing room, which had a nice warm peat fire going. It was an absolutely perfect way to spend an evening after an imperfect, but still fun, day.

In which things are much less rude at Holyrood

In reading my previous post, it occurs to me that I don't think I emphasized how very disappointed I was with our experience at Edinburgh Castle. I had been really looking forward to it, and it was just so painfully crowded it hindered my experience. That said, I'd like to go back again and give it another shot, because I feel like there were cool things there that I didn't really get to absorb. Oh well. 

When I left off we had exited the castle with the plan of walking to the other end of the Royal Mile to Holyrood House, the official Scottish residence of the ruling monarch.  It's a pleasant walk from one end of the Mile to the next, and it gave me some time in a less agitated state to appreciate some of  the city. 

                                                                                                                                                                                                                       

                                                     What's the matter? Never taken a shortcut before?                                                                                                                                                                                                            

                    

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We finally arrived at the palace, where as I'm sure it will surprise no one at all, you can not take pictures once inside. There are some truly lovely pictures to be had in the arrivals courtyard, though.

This is one of those "the picture doesn't really do it justice" things. This gate and archway was gorgeous.                                                     

I honestly think this picture is slightly crooked because of how much the wind was blowing my camera around.                           

                                                                                                                                                                                                        

One thing I must say I'm very disappointed in myself for, is not taking a picture of one of the guards inside the initial vestibule. I swear she was Merida from Brave. She had the gorgeous, unruly, blazing red hair and everything. You'll just have to use your imagination. 

The inside of the palace is both gorgeous and fascinating. While the areas used as the private quarters of the sitting royal family are off limits, you do get to explore the official rooms which are still used today - including the room where the Queen takes state visitors, and the hall where she presents various awards and, you know, knighthoods. Little things like that.  There are also the ancient parts of the palace, many of which feature in some of the more sordid episodes from the life of Mary Queen of Scots. You can stand on the spot where one of Mary's favorite advisers was brutally murdered on the orders of her jealous husband. If that's not your thing, you might enjoy how the guided tour did an excellent job explaining the way the visitor's path is laid out to increase intimidation as one would get closer to the room where you were to encounter the reigning monarch. 

After you are done with the interior, you exit into the ruins of Holywood Abbey. Dating back to the 12th century, but abandoned to ruins somewhere before the 1800s, this has to be one of my all-time favorite ruins.  There's something about the way the Abbey still has touches of splendor even in its ruined state, and its position directly in the literal shadow of the palace that give it the kind of romantic qualities that one usually expects to find in a gothic poem. And good news! You can take pictures here!

 

I particularly like this figure's carved thistle. 

Once done with the Abbey, you'll have the option to explore the gardens, which again are cultivated to the preferences of the Queen.  She uses these gardens during her visits in good weather to host garden parties and other official state gatherings. On the day we were there, it was extremely windy and a bit biting - not at all garden party weather - but we still decided to tour the grounds a little.

Exterior of Holywood Abbey as seen from the garden.

Coming around the far side of the gardens,  you will have an excellent view of Arthur's Seat. 

All told, we spent a little over three hours at Holyrood - and they were absolutely wonderful. This was by far one of my favorite stops on our trip. 

When we were done there, we waffled a bit about what we should do next. In our waffling wanderings, we came across the back end of the property at Holyrood and discovered this fun gem. 

 In the end, we decided that dinner and an early night back at the B&B were in order. We found an excellent gastropub, which had the misfortune of being visited by an extremely loud and obnoxious American at the same time we were there. (Yes, we are American. No, we are not extremely loud and obnoxious. And that makes all the difference.)  After dinner we went in search of Edinburgh's famous fried Mars bar - an actual deep fried candy bar. As it was Easter, the shop we found was also advertising the seasonal specialty of a deep fried Cadbury egg. I passed on both "treats". Of the fried Mars bar, Adam says that while not "amazing and transcendent" it was good, and he was glad he tried it. I'm still not sorry I didn't.

It was getting dark when we caught a cab back to the B&B, and on the way I happened to catch this picture of Edinburgh Castle as it looks from below. 

 It really is a beautiful building, and a beautiful city. In all honesty, my experience there was a let down for me, but my expectations were about sky-high. Looking back on it now, I'd like to give it another shot. Maybe on a cloudy day.

The Sun (Nearly) Ruins Everything

Our morning in Edinburgh dawned bright and sunny.  And that was a problem. I think I've mentioned it before, but man, do I HATE the sun.  It's something to do with the fact that when the sun gets in my eyes I go totally blind.  And it hurts. And also, it makes me go blind.  I can go from happy-go-lucky to effing FURIOUS within a heartbeat if I get sun glare in my eyes.  And that was about to happen, but first - breakfast!

If you're wondering if there are differences between a Full English Breakfast and Full Scottish Breakfast, the answer is yes. A Scottish breakfast is more likely to come with black pudding instead of link sausage (no thank you) and a tattie scone (yes please).  Our breakfast was delightful and we were entertained with plenty of chat with one of our hosts, who was eager to discuss cars and the new dishwasher they had hired who was apparently terrible (and who walked in as we were talking, only an hour late!). 

When we travel, we mostly go at our own pace.  But this day we actually had tickets to a thing and had to be there at a certain time.  There's only one thing that makes me ragey as fast as the sun in my eyes, and that is being late. We asked our host if our destination was walkable and he gave us kind of a middling answer. He mainly suggested taking a taxi or perhaps the city bus.  Now, I'm all for learning the local mass transit systems, but not when I'm trying to get somewhere by a deadline.  I wanted to take a taxi. Adam wanted to walk. Into the full sun.  Without really knowing how long it was going to take us to get where we needed to be as this was our first time ever in this city.  

Yeah. 

I think my meltdown/temper tantrum happened about ten minutes into the walk. I'm not sure. Not my proudest moment, no.  However, before embarking on this trip, Adam and I had talked about ways to avoid trip-spoiling fights.  He encouraged me to take some deep breaths (in... out... in... out) and figure out what I needed. Well, as it turns out, I needed a damn taxi. One was hailed and we arrived after a brief trip at our destination. Would we have made it on foot? I'm not sure.  But I am sure that I was still feeling punchy, so we stopped into a cafe for a quick coffee and a call home to talk to my boy, who was hanging with his Grammy and Aunt Patty and not really giving a second thought to Mommy and Daddy not being home (thanks, kid). Revived, we crossed the square to our morning's adventure: Mary King's Close. 

History lesson! And it's a long one, but it's worth it! I think.  Anywho. Although I've been in several cities over a certain age, I've never seen one with the structure of medieval Edinburgh. Like many ancient cities, it was walled.  When the population expanded, they did not move the walls out, instead, choosing to just kept building up.  Narrow streets sloped down the ridge that Edinburgh is built on, terminating into a marshy lake (Nor Loch, now gone).  These streets were called closes, and were often named after their most notable resident. Buildings at one point reached a height of up to 8 stories which is pretty impressive for the 15th century. While many of the buildings which existed on the closes were destroyed over time, in the 18th century when the Royal Exchange building was founded, only the top layers of the buildings on Mary King's and a few other nearby closes were destroyed. The rest were closed and buried under the newer buildings. 

What's left of Mary King's is now open to tours, guided by a costumed "in character" guide.  I had read about this a few years ago, and knew I needed to go someday. This was that day!  Was it everything I wanted it to be? Yep. Creepy, intriguing, informative, enlightening.  Do I have awesome pictures? Nope. Because you're not allowed to take pictures.  Am I sorry I just talked a lot about a thing I can't show you? I am not. Because I am going to link to their web page and tell you that if you're in Edinburgh, this is worth doing. Here you go: https://www.realmarykingsclose.com/

Ok, I do have one picture, taken in the lobby where you can leave any belongings you don't want to lug down into the close (it's steep and very narrow at parts). 

After our tour, we posed outside of another nearby close.  Please note, blazing sun and my squinty eyes and not entirely happy looking face.  Also, crazy hair, because holy shit was Edinburgh windy.  The hair situation would only get worse as the day went on, trust me. 

We began our walk up the incline of the city to our next destination, noting some cool architecture and sites, and a few more closes along the way. 

As we got nearer, we got a great view over parts of the city. Ha, I just noticed all those tour buses.  Huh, that explains a lot about what was about to happen, actually.

Figured out where we were headed yet?  Edinburgh castle, of course!

We purchased our tickets and proceeded through the first portcullis gate, still climbing up up up. 

The views were absolutely spectacular.

A guide stood nearby, and it looked like he'd be embarking on a tour soon so we joined the crowd. He turned out to be a German national, serving as a tour guide here in Edinburgh.  By the way, our tour guide at Mary King's was from Venezuela. And the lady who made my coffee in the cafe was Italian.  

There are no Scots in Scotland, ladies and gentlemen. 

The tour was actually quite delightful, although I will point out that at one point it started snowing. SNOWING. We were lead up the rest of the castle and had various interesting elements pointed out to us. I don't remember a lot of them, but here's some fun pictures!

The guide left us off at the courtyard at the very top of the castle, which is where the tower in the next picture is.  This is the tower that is on the building that houses the Scottish crown jewels.

We joined the queue to go through the tower.  No pictures allowed, but it was a spectacular display. I didn't get as much time in there as I would have liked since not only was it crowded, but the crowd was made up of some of the RUDEST BUTTHOLES IN THE WORLD. 

Sorry for the outburst, but there was a particular tour group of about a hundred people who were clearly members of the "WORLD TOURS FOR BUTTHOLES" tour group. I don't do well with getting intentionally pushed and shoved, so I did give up after a few minutes and step outside. I'll go back someday and get a better look.  Sadly, this was not our last encounter with the WTFBH. 

I needed to take a breather, so we decided to get some lunch. There was a nice cafeteria style cafe where you could pick and choose items, and I don't remember what I ate but I do remember it was my first taste of Tunnock's tea cakes. They look like this:

Ever had a Mallowmar? These are better. Seriously. Don't know what a Mallowmar is? Well, now you have TWO delicacies to seek out. Luckily Tunnock's are available in the US. Take my advice - GET SOME. You can get them at World Market. Go right now, I'll still be here when you get back. 

In a much better mood after a delightful culinary experience, we stepped back out onto the main terrace of the castle to observe the one o'clock cannon fire. This daily blast goes back to the 19th century, and was initially intended to allow all of the ships in the harbor below to use a single standard to set their maritime clocks.  Now it's just for funsies.

Also up on the castle's main terrace is a display of cannons, including Mons Meg.  Mons Meg is famous not because it's a big cannon, but because its projectiles are absolutely massive - 20 inches!  Imagine a 20 inch cannon ball flying at your head. On second thought, don't - it's a really scary thought.

Here's Adam posing with Meg: 

One of the buildings which had been pointed out to us during our earlier tour was St. Margaret's chapel.  Built in the 12th century, it is officially the oldest building in all of Scotland. It's a tiny little building, but it has some really beautiful details - not to mention just the idea of the history behind it. It was built for St. Margaret to conduct her private prayers and devotionals when she was just Margaret, wife of King Malcolm.  And hey, it allows pictures!

Saint Margaret herself in stained glass. I'm guessing they installed this AFTER she was no longer using this chapel. 

Another building that allows photography is the Great Hall. This one dates back to 1511, and is full of armor and medieval weaponry. But I really liked the wall ornamentation. 

We explored some more, going through a prison where English, Irish, American, and other nationalities of pirates and prisoners of war were held. It was a disturbing experience, actually, as it was made clear that when the Scottish authorities captured a wanted ship, they held everyone on board prisoner - including cabin boys.  The youngest noted prisoner ever held there was about five years old. Conditions were less than ideal, and it was really sad to think of a mere child being held there, probably for years.

Another building I don't have pictures of is the building which contains the rooms in which Mary Queen of Scots gave birth to James VI.  It's a suite of rooms, but the bedroom where he was born is actually quite tiny.  Adam and were in the room only a few minutes when who started pouring in the door but the WTFBHs. It was like the opposite of a clown car - dozens of people squeezing relentlessly into a tiny tiny room.  I made for the door and indicated to the group that I'd like to get out, thus making more room for them, but they barely glanced at me as they pushed me aside and kept streaming in.

That's pretty much when I'd had it. I declared it was time to get out of the castle! Our next destination was Holy Rood, at the lower end of the city. I'll write about that next time!